Every step you take,
Every move you make....
(Every Breath You Take by The Police, 1983)
Saturday Sept 14th, 2019
Villavente to Astorga
22 km, 29,000 steps, walking day #24
Just before we finished dinner last night (Friday Sept 13th), our host Mercedes asked us if breakfast at 8:00 am would work. She told us we could sleep in because a) she knew how far we all had to walk the next day, and it wasn't far (my walk was the farthest of anyone at the Casa), and b) luggage pick up was not until at least 10:00 am. Getting this news was like receiving a message delivered by an angel directly from heaven.
The combination of sleeping in, a "late", leisurely breakfast then being able to return to the room to pack calmly and methodically spelled luxury to me. Not that I'm having stress. Quite the opposite. Literally the only pressure I have is to get that suitcase down to the door, usually by 8:00 am. That extra time made it possible for me to say that there was no pressure of any kind for that day!
I finally got out the door after saying goodbye to my hosts Mercedes and Massimmo.
I was thinking about feet today. They are critical to the journey. If they're not happy and working well, then no other part is happy or working well. They feel every stone, which means it's vital to pick each spot to place your next step. They feel the slant of the road, and my feet prefer the road to be level and not banked left or right, so I change "tracks" often as I walk, to stay on the most level and rock-free path.
Feet certainly tell you when there's a stone in your shoe. I stop and remove it as soon as I feel it. Stones are trouble. They can cause a blister or a sore spot that can plague you for a long time. They can also cause a rough spot in your shoe, or damage your sock. Any of those things might ultimately result in misfortune.
Pilgrims, including myself, tend to follow the routine of checking into their place for the night, removing their hiking shoes and socks, and putting on their "evening shoes", which for most people are flip-flops. I wear my Teva sandals. This results in everyone's taping and bandaging jobs being on display.
It becomes a topic of conversation. People seem to wear their tape and gauze and Compeed blister dressings like they are badges of honor. I did, and continue to do, everything possible to avoid that badge.
I trained for 5 months in the shoes I'm now wearing. I tried multiple kinds of socks until I found the ones that worked for me, and I trained in them. I trained with the orthotics that I'm now wearing, and with the full pack that I'm now wearing. If my feet get hot I take my shoes off and let them cool. If my feet are very wet with perspiration, I take my shoes and socks off and let them dry. It only takes a minute. If my shoes feel tight, I loosen them. If my shoes loosen during the day and I feel rubbing, I tighten them. I control my steps and walk softly if I can. I use my walking poles all the time, to take some of the weight off my feet. I wash my socks often. The weight of my pack is comfortable for me to carry all day. I don't put Vaseline on my feet, I don't put anti-chafe stuff between my toes or powder on my feet or in my socks. My feet have remained in perfect condition throughout my walk. (I just knocked on wood, spit three times and threw salt over my left shoulder).
And now to the Spain stuff.
Today's blog was named after the song "Blues Run the Game" by Jackson C. Clark.
It's one of the most haunting, beautiful and tragic songs I know.
Please listen to it on Youtube, then read the Wikipedia page on Jackson C. Clark, and then listen to the song again.
Every move you make....
(Every Breath You Take by The Police, 1983)
Coolest bedside lamp ever!
There's a dimmer switch so it can be all the way bright,
or dim enough to see the elements.
Saturday Sept 14th, 2019
Villavente to Astorga
22 km, 29,000 steps, walking day #24
Just before we finished dinner last night (Friday Sept 13th), our host Mercedes asked us if breakfast at 8:00 am would work. She told us we could sleep in because a) she knew how far we all had to walk the next day, and it wasn't far (my walk was the farthest of anyone at the Casa), and b) luggage pick up was not until at least 10:00 am. Getting this news was like receiving a message delivered by an angel directly from heaven.
The combination of sleeping in, a "late", leisurely breakfast then being able to return to the room to pack calmly and methodically spelled luxury to me. Not that I'm having stress. Quite the opposite. Literally the only pressure I have is to get that suitcase down to the door, usually by 8:00 am. That extra time made it possible for me to say that there was no pressure of any kind for that day!
I finally got out the door after saying goodbye to my hosts Mercedes and Massimmo.
Saying "Goodbye" to Mercedes
Then I picked a few perfectly ripe plums from her orchard for a snack.
I was thinking about feet today. They are critical to the journey. If they're not happy and working well, then no other part is happy or working well. They feel every stone, which means it's vital to pick each spot to place your next step. They feel the slant of the road, and my feet prefer the road to be level and not banked left or right, so I change "tracks" often as I walk, to stay on the most level and rock-free path.
There's always two and sometimes three or even four "tracks" on the path.
The feet are very clear in communicating their feelings and wants.
Feet certainly tell you when there's a stone in your shoe. I stop and remove it as soon as I feel it. Stones are trouble. They can cause a blister or a sore spot that can plague you for a long time. They can also cause a rough spot in your shoe, or damage your sock. Any of those things might ultimately result in misfortune.
Pilgrims, including myself, tend to follow the routine of checking into their place for the night, removing their hiking shoes and socks, and putting on their "evening shoes", which for most people are flip-flops. I wear my Teva sandals. This results in everyone's taping and bandaging jobs being on display.
His heel, her left baby toe and right second toe.
It becomes a topic of conversation. People seem to wear their tape and gauze and Compeed blister dressings like they are badges of honor. I did, and continue to do, everything possible to avoid that badge.
I trained for 5 months in the shoes I'm now wearing. I tried multiple kinds of socks until I found the ones that worked for me, and I trained in them. I trained with the orthotics that I'm now wearing, and with the full pack that I'm now wearing. If my feet get hot I take my shoes off and let them cool. If my feet are very wet with perspiration, I take my shoes and socks off and let them dry. It only takes a minute. If my shoes feel tight, I loosen them. If my shoes loosen during the day and I feel rubbing, I tighten them. I control my steps and walk softly if I can. I use my walking poles all the time, to take some of the weight off my feet. I wash my socks often. The weight of my pack is comfortable for me to carry all day. I don't put Vaseline on my feet, I don't put anti-chafe stuff between my toes or powder on my feet or in my socks. My feet have remained in perfect condition throughout my walk. (I just knocked on wood, spit three times and threw salt over my left shoulder).
It is not easy to photograph the bottoms of your own feet!
Finally - some graffiti with a positive attitude!
Birds live in those tiny caves. The wall went on for about 50m.
I wish I could photograph every door in Spain.
Cruciero Santo Toribio, commemorating the 5th century Bishop Toribio of Astorga who supposedly fell to his knees in this spot in a final farewell to the town after he was banished from Astorga. There's a stunning view of Astorga in the distance, with the great cathedral just visible to the left above the treeline.
Just outside of Astorga, this pasarela (railway overpass) required 400 steps (I counted) to cross over one set of tracks that were at most 15m wide.
Arriving into Astorga. The Cathedral dominates the skyline.
You can hear the buzz and feel the energy of Plaza Major blocks before you reach it.
Monumento a los Sitios in Plaza Santoclides. The inscription reads: For the perpetual remembrance of the heroic defenders of the city in its two memorable sieges by the Napoleonic hosts 1809-1810, this monument is erected.
A close up. It's really a dramatic sculpture.
Dinner on the Plaza Major.
Patatas Bravas with spicy tomato sauce and aioli.
Divine. I get to have it if I have walked at least 20 km!
My precious goat cheese salad! This time with smoked salmon!!
Also very good.
Also very good.
People gather on the square every hour and look up....
...to see these figurines on the city hall strike the hour.
It's one of the most haunting, beautiful and tragic songs I know.
Please listen to it on Youtube, then read the Wikipedia page on Jackson C. Clark, and then listen to the song again.
I loved your post today! Now I'm really hungry. The sky behind the lion was perfect!
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