As Planned

Things have gone pretty much as planned since Friday Aug 16th, when we left Toronto for Spain. The Uber to the airport was uneventful. There were no lines at security. We had free dinner and drinks (!) in the Diamond Infinity lounge.

The plane for Brussels left on time. The flight, although cramped for space was also uneventful.

Mark Knopfler's latest album was available on the entertainment system so I had a nice listen to that. The layover in Brussels was nice and comfortable, since we made use of the Diamond lounge there, too. It was early morning according to Brussels time (regardless of what our bodies were telling us), so I chose to have a Breakfast of Champions - Nutella, cheese, salami and whiskey.

 

 After another short plane trip we landed in Madrid. The Metro subway goes right into the airport terminal. It’s easy to find and easy to use. We took it directly from the airport to downtown Madrid. It was 38 degrees in Madrid - for them a cool summer day. We got out of the subway at recommended stop, and surfaced to the street. We hadn't bought SIM cards for our phones yet, so it was with a quick sense of horror we realized we didn't have Wifi, data or GPS. How to find our hotel?? Oh, ya - look up. Our hotel, as promised, was less than two hundred meters from the subway stop exit.
We checked into the Ayre Grande Hotel Colon. It’s a very nice hotel with many amenities and a very attractive rate! We slept for about 4 hrs, then went out to explore. We took public transit (bus) to Sol Plaza - lots of people and lots of buskers. We were very mindful of our valuables but there didn't really seem to be a problem and no-one approached us or looked suspicious.

We bought SIM cards for our phones - you have to show your passport to buy an international SIM card in Spain. Our passports were locked in the safe in our hotel room but we did have photographs of all our ID on our phones, and that was sufficient. And just like that, we were online and connected.

As planned, we had dinner in the La Latina district - a warren of narrow streets lined on both sides by tapas bars. Everyone is out, eating, drinking, talking, walking, and enjoying the slightly cooler post-sunset temperatures. The district is very crowded but very lively and fun. 

The next day the Prado Museum was on the top of our must-do list for Madrid. Although not necessarily planned, I usually have one spectacular fall per trip. Considering I would be walking almost 800 km (or maybe more than 800 km, given that I get lost frequently) I did wonder when that fall would occur, and how bad it would be. I didn't have to wonder for long. Day 2 in Madrid, not 100m away from the hotel in the morning, I tripped on the sidewalk were it had been lifted by tree roots. I flew, and skidded across the cobblestone. Goodbye to skin on right knee and right elbow. Can I be grateful? Yes - no broken bones. Also grateful that I had brought a large supply of first aid and pain medication. I thought I might need it during the Camino. I didn't imagine that I'd be breaking into it before my walk even began!

We did manage to get to The Prado and we enjoyed the audio tour, and the special exhibit designed to show the similarities between the Spanish, Flemish and Italian painters.

 

 A beautiful green bird eyeing a fig, just before the feast began! 

As planned, we took the high speed train to Pamplona the next day - a 2 1/2 hour trip through country side that was burnt yellow by the heat. We spent a lot of time roaming the older parts of Pamplona, again seeing the must-see spots, walking along the path of the Running of the Bulls, and touring the bull ring - the Plaza del Toros.

 

Lots of tapas, lots of walking, lots of churches and statues, and lots of people out and about. Pamplona was cooler and very comfortable to walk around.

 

Pamplona City Hall and the lively square in front of it. 

Half wheelchair, half bike!

Finally, as planned, Wed Aug 21, 2019, I got on a bus in the newly built Estation d'Autobus (Bus station) in Pamplona and 1 1/2 hours later arrived in Roncesvalles (Ron-thes-vie-ess), where I was to begin my camino the next morning. Wednesday Aug 21, 2019 was a lovely, sunny day with a cool breeze. Roncesvalles, although tiny - you can walk around it in 15 minutes - has a busy tourist information office, a Pilgrim office, many hotels and restaurants and a few ancient churches - one was built in 776 CE. Everyone is here for the same reason - to leave on their way in the morning. We're all milling about, looking with great interest at everything, sitting on patios drinking beer, standing up and taking a step this way and then that way, looking for the best angle to take a picture, waiting for dinnertime, waiting for bedtime, waiting for tomorrow to set off with boots and walking sticks.

THE roadsign in Roncesvalles

I had dinner in the hotel restaurant. Menu of the Day had many choices. I chose Chevre salad, which was just about the best salad I have ever had in a restaurant. Lots of greens, lots of walnuts chopped the perfect size, juicy leaves of endive, balsamic vinegar, tomatoes, and a thick round slice of chevre which was not too tangy, not too salty, just right. Iberian sirloin with roquefort sauce and hand-cut french fries followed, and then rice pudding for dessert. What’s that you say?? Hey - I'm walking 22 km tomorrow - yeah - that's my excuse. Oh, did I mention that every prix fixe menu comes with a bottle of water, an entire bottle of wine and bread??

If you want a certificate of completion when you arrive in Santiago de Compostela, you must carry a Pilgrim’s passport (Credentiale) and get it stamped in every town. I got my first stamp in my Credentiale. I'll have more than 50 by the time I'm finished. 

My goal is clear, and right now I'm very excited and optimistic. As we say in my family "More news at 11:00" which basically means I'll keep you updated as things develop. TTFN, TTYL. Ciao amigos, hasta luego.